For many gardeners, interest in hellebores occurs in the area of the large flowered and brightly colored hybrids. From there it makes sense that interested individuals may want to create their own hybrids. The mechanics of hybridizing is not difficult, and one can do it without complex facilities. The joy from seeing a plant bloom for the first time is hard to describe, but over time the anticipation of something new is probably one of the key factors in getting hooked on hybridizing.
Once one has a few hybrids, it seems natural to acquire a few species as one's interest in and appreciation for the genus grows. Some of the species plants make magnificent garden plants, and many can be hybridized easily. Once you see a mature species plant in full bloom, it is hard to ignore them. The wonderful part is that many species have not been used extensively in hybridizing, so there is a good possibility that even amateurs like us can create something new and exciting!
Breeding
In the context of hellebores, the process of hybridization and selection is what most people call breeding. Generally speaking, the hybridizer/selector is one who takes pollen from one plant's anthers and distributes it onto the stigmas of another plant or multiple other plants. In the case where pollen is distributed to the stigmas of the same plant, the method is called 'selfing' and is a stage of inbreeding. After a few years when the plant blooms, the hybridizer may select the best from the offspring and separate them from the others. In some cases the remaining plants will be destroyed, sold, or given away. S/he may do this repeatedly for years or decades while developing a collection of wonderful plants.
But, breeding can also be taken beyond simple hybridization and selection. Over many years with good record-keeping, a breeder can learn much about individual parents and learn what to expect from individual crosses. The process of many years of carefully selecting parents and calculating results is perhaps the only way to develop stable lines in color and form.
About Strains
Hellebores are notorious for having mixed genetics and can exhibit considerable variation when grown from seed. This makes the job of the breeder extremely difficult, in some cases seemingly impossible. It often takes many years to establish stability in hybrid hellebores; patience is perhaps the most important factor in successful breeding.
With a single successful cross it is quite possible to get well over half the offspring to resemble each other. The remainder may contain plants that exceeded all expectations as well as plants that exhibit undesirable features. Over time it is possible to come up with lines that are 75-90% or more 'true' to color and form.
Resulting seedlings of hybridization are not clones or cultivars. At best they can be described as strains. In the context of hellebores, "strain" can mean several different things. Generally, three common usages occur in literature:
A strain sometimes is simply a brand name attached to hybrid seedlings. In this sense, the plants can be almost any range of color or form, so 'strain' here refers to a brand: 'Royal Heritage Strain' is one famous example. There is no way to know what color a plant might be in this context.
Another common usage of strain is to describe plants of similar color and/or form. For example a grower could carry several different color lines and refer to them as strains. Examples might include Gisela Schiemann's 'Lady series' which are grouped by color or some caulescent strains like 'Pacific Frost' or 'Wester Flisk'.
Perhaps the rarest usage of strain is the one that is most strict. A strain technically is a group of seedlings that very closely resemble each other, perhaps 95% of the time. These seedlings would show slight variation, but mostly would appear identical at a glance. This is a very challenging task in hybridizing hellebores, and often what is published about strains or seedlings coming true is wishful thinking.
All of these usages have menaing, but it is important to recognize the difference. In most cases "strain" in the context of hybrid hellebres represents quite a bit of variation in seedlings. Still, over time we can have somewhat stable results, and in some cases the plants that do not conform may be better than those that do.
How to Succeed
The first thing to consider when starting a program is how long you want to wait before seeing some results. Since from pollenation to bloom you are looking at 3- 5 years, it is helpful to start with quality genes that are as stable as possible. Purchasing plants in flower is often the best approach. Starting from seed or from inferior plants creates a very long waiting period at the start of the program.
The next step is to consider whether you want to establish goals or simply see what happens when you use your inspired creativity. Some basic factors include:
Sepal color: When seeking clear colors it makes sense to avoid plants with spotting or veining. Likewise, if the primary interest lies in certain color ranges such as white-yellow or violet-black, then it makes sense to generally avoid the colors intermediate between them. Generally, to create particular color lines one would work within color groups. Though crossing widely divergent colors can at times create wonderful and interesting shades and combinations, hybrids are notorious for giving 'muddy' results.
Sepal shape: If one goal is rounded over-lapping sepals, then it makes sense to avoid plants with very pointed, twisted, and star-shaped sepals. Symmetry is an important goal for many breeders. Many, if not most, hellebore flowers have a tendency to show asymmetrical patterns in form and color. Some of the asymmetry is caused by genetic material responding to environmental factors and can be difficult to control, particularly in the open garden.
Flower size/number: Flower size and quantity varies. Some plants have beautiful flowers that are produced sporadically; other plants produce dozens of mediocre flowers in a season. There is scope for producing many decent sized flowers of good color and substance on profuse inflorescences.
Nectaries: In recent years, more attention has been given to nectary form and color, and for good reason. Nice nectaries can provide interesting contrast with the background at the base of the sepals. They also seem to play a role in 'doubling' since true nectaries are typically absent in the most common double forms.
Bracts/Cauline leaves: The bracts can be very important. They give texture to emerging flower stalks, and they can also have very interesting coloration to match or contrast with the flowers. Plants with small bracts feature the flowers, but larger bracts often give the inflorescence a more substantial appearance.
Foliage: Foliage is perhaps one of the most important aspects of hybridizing but often one of the most ignored. Typically it is the species that show the most polymorphic and interesting foliage (this is one reason why it is strange that species are often ignored in programs), but sometimes interesting ranges can be achieved in hybrids as well. Color, texture, and number and width of divisions are some key things to keep in mind. It is also important to consider whether or not you want foliage that is wintergreen because foliage of many species does not overwinter. Local climate also matters. Some plants will be wintergreen in USDA zone 7 but not in USDA zone 5 for example.
Health/Vigor: Sometimes a plant can produce a flower that is just what you want but may be a very weak grower or even prone to fungus or disease. It is my opinion that such plants should be avoided. You may get more vigorous plants from future generations, but there is no guarantee that the plant will make a good parent. Also, allowing weak or diseased plants to remain in your garden potentially increases the chance of pathogens spreading to other plants.
